Free OTA Broadcast TV

You can LEGALLY still watch Broadcast TV without having to pay huge sums for cable or satellite TV. OTA (Over-The-Air) Broadcast TV is still available for free. You do not need a descrambler box. Most of the newish TVs (any of the thin flat TVs)  are capable of receiving the OTA digital signal without any extra help. You will not be watching cable channels like HBO or Cartoon Network. But you can watch ABC, CBS, FOX, NBC, PBS and a few that you may not have heard about such as

COZI www.cozitv.com hit movies and iconic television series

GETTV https://www.get.tv/ action, crime, comedy and western TV series and movies from all eras

MeTV http://www.metv.com/ a variety of classic television programs from the 1950s through the 1990s

H&I http://www.heroesandiconstv.com/ primarily airs classic television series from the 1950s through the 2000s, with a focus on westerns, crime dramas, sci-fi, and action-oriented programming

THIS http://www.thistv.com/ programming emphasis on films primarily sourced from the library of partial owner Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer, also airs other limited general entertainment content in the form of classic television series and children’s programming

CW http://www.cwtv.com/ some CW affiliates are receivable over-the-air in border areas depending on the station’s signal coverage

GRIT http://www.grittv.com/ features classic TV series and feature films targeted at men

LAFF http://www.laff.com/ specializes in comedy programming, featuring a mix of feature films and archived sitcoms

ION http://www.iontelevision.com/ a general entertainment network featuring mainly recent and older acquired programs

As well as channels that seem to be dedicated to game shows. You will not get all channels everywhere. But you should get the basic networks plus THIS which has a lot of movies.

A couple of years ago, I bought the cheapest flat TV antenna that Family Dollar sold at the time (As Seen on TV Clear TV flat panel for about $15). I didn’t want to put much money into something that I didn’t think was going to work since I was 75 miles away from ABQ at the time and I didn’t know where the signal booster towers were for the area. The tiny town I was living in at the time did not have a local TV station. I got 8 good strong channels (9 if you count the Spanish language channel). I recently gave my little antenna to a friend so he could watch TV on his new TV. Our park has gotten rid of the cable boxes for now and we don’t know if they will get them back or replace with something else. Not that it matters to me. I tend to watch Netflix only thru my hot spot. Haven’t watched broadcast TV in a long time. When I get another antenna, I will get one with much longer range, probably a 50 mile one. The steel skin of the bus messes with the signal but the antenna does have a longish cord so I can shift it around within a few feet to find a window that gets a better signal. My friend got a few more channels than I did and he is in a manufactured RV. The antenna allowed me to watch TV at a ti when I did not have access to cable or a WiFi hotspot with unlimited data. I wanted something that would allow me to watch TV that was cheap and didn’t involve high monthly payments. I had been looking at RV park reviews and websites for the past few years and realized that I was noticing more and more campgrounds and RV parks that did not offer cable TV in their services. I looked into those portable satellite dishes like the Tailgator but I cringed at the price not only of the antenna but the monthly programming packages. So I picked up the little flat antenna and stuck it in the window of the bus. I was really amazed at the reception. Now the weaker channels would digitalize but the stronger channels were really clear and crisp. The only thing I would suggest is that you get a longer range (more expensive) antenna instead of the cheapest/shortest range one. I used suction cups to hold the flat antenna to the glass. It was easily removed for traveling.

Clear TV Antenna

To connect the antenna to the TV you can just attach the coax connector on the antenna to your “Antenna In” connection on the TV. Not very complicated. I had mine connected to an AV switcher that I bought at Wal-Mart. The antenna is connected to the “Antenna In” port and my DVD player is plugged into another connection using Composite Audio/Video cables (red/yellow/white plugs). The AV switcher is plugged into the TV using a coax cable. My DVD player and Coax for connecting to park cable is on one side of the bus and the TV is on the opposite side. I have a long coax cable under the the floor to connect everything.

What can you watch? You simply go to TVguide.com and enter in a few things to get a daily channel listing. This is a free service and you can sign up so that your choices are saved. But you don’t have to sign up. I did but have since forgot my log-in and password. When I get another antenna I will have to remember to sign back up again and write my log-in and password down.

On your computer, go to http://www.tvguide.com/listings/

Scroll down to the listings to “Provider” and click on “change”. A little pop-up window will appear. Use a local-to-you location zip code.

Choose “antenna” and you should have at least one “Area Broadcast” OTA Broadcast show up. In NM apparently that is only ABQ no matter where you are in the state.

Click on the Area Broadcast you prefer. The pop-up window will close.

Close any pop-ups for TV shows that appear to save your sanity. They are irritating and eat up data.

On the left hand side of the screen you will see a listing of channels. You most likely will not receive all of the ones listed. The bigger (more expensive) your antenna is the farther the range it has and the more channels it will pick up. The channels are numbered oddly (2.1, 3.1, 3.2 and so on). When you run the “auto channel program” for “Antenna” on your TV, it will cycle thru and only select the channels that have a strong enough signal to register. You will probably have to delete a few channels because the signal is strong enough to register but not strong enough to make a clear picture. You may need to move the location of the antenna to get the channels to come in clearly. I found locating the antenna in a window worked best. The longer range your antenna is the better your channels will come in. Get a notepad and write down all the channel numbers that you are getting on the TV.

Once you have your channel numbers, you can see what the stations are using the TV Guide Listing. Next to the Channel call letters is a little heart. You click on the heart to turn it red. This indicates that it is a “favourite”. Then you can simply go back up to the bar above the time line and click on “Favourites” and that will be the only channels you will see listed. This helps to clear out the clutter.so you can easily see what is on the channels you receive.

Right now, I don’t have a need or desire to use my little flat screen antenna. It’s why I gave it away. I bought an Unlimitedville hotspot when they were doing the unlimited data plans for $50/mo. It allows me to stream Netflix. Between Netflix and Redbox movie rentals, I haven’t watched broadcast TV since July of last summer. But that is now. When I start back traveling again, I will more than likely find that I will be wanting to have a OTA TV antenna for those times when I don’t have cell service for my hotspot.

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Procrastination is Not an Excuse

I somehow lost my password for my eBay account. I tried all the passwords I could have used. I even tried the password recovery and still could not get into my business account. So I broke down and set up a new account. I also had bought a few things that allowed me to use my old Sony Mavica camera again. It takes much better pictures than anything else I have. No more excuses for not putting stuff online to sell. So today I put one of the art dolls I made up for sale. On Monday, I will list a few more things.

Mermaid 1 Sitting (cover)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/253070360522

TRIP ROUTE MAPPING

Recently I got a new2me laptop to replace the other laptop (the one that the dog keeps knocking on the floor) because it is falling apart. It is being relegated to use as a “Netflix” player. So I have been slowly moving things over. I had to download my obsolete MS Streets&Trips 2013 again. I’ve bought this program in the past but MS decided it wasn’t worth their time and stopped producing it and stopped supporting it. I got my copy (free) from thepiratebay org https://thepiratebay.org/torrent/8313321/Microsoft_Streets_and_Trips_2013_(x86_and_x64)_-_DVD_(English). It downloads as an ISO which is too big for any of the CDs that I have on hand. I used the information that I found online to mount the ISO onto my hard drive. I found that information here: https://blogs.technet.microsoft.com/odsupport/2011/04/19/how-to-extract-the-contents-from-an-iso-file-without-burning-the-iso-to-disc/ and used the free Pismo File Mount Audit Package http://pismotec.com/download/ .

I have been downloading all the POIs starting with the last updated of the free Streets 2013 POI Mega file for RV’s & Truckers from http://www.laptopgpsworld.com, modified it to suit me (I cut/deleted all the POI categories that I have no need for) and supplement the Mega file with updated free POIs from the POI-factory http://www.poi-factory.com. I down load the POIs as a .CSV file. Then I import it from my downloads using the import wizard in Streets & Trips. I have found that I need to change the first two columns to “Longitude” and Latitude”

To Import CSV Files In Streets & Trips 2013:

Open the program to the map you want. I open it and start out with the original Mega file. I saved that as “Lorna’s US POIs 2017” which becomes my master map. Next I cut/delete all the Categories that I do not want (I have no interest in keeping the various membership campgrounds so they get cut). I simply right click on the category I do not want and a window pops up where I choose either CUT or DELETE. Once I have the Mega file trimmed down to my choices, I save it again. Then I find all the POI files I want on POI-Factory and download the CVS version of the files. Then I am ready to import the data into the map I saved. With the map open I then select

DATA – IMPORT DATA WIZARD

Highlight the CSV file I want to open from my downloads list (or where ever I saved the downloaded file to) then click OPEN

The wizard will say “Choose the character that separates your fields” It needs to “look right” so the columns should be fairly tight together. I have found that choosing COMMA generally works.

Next I choose the DATA TYPE from the drop down menu at the top of the columns. The first column should be LONGITUDE, the second should be LATITUDE. The other column(s) should be Other Data, Name and/or Address. Then click on FINISH. This will have the files mapped by latitude and longitude rather than street addresses. Mapping by street address results in a lot of “unmapped” files (locations that the addresses don’t match up so the program doesn’t know where to locate them on the map). Whereas by using the GPS coordinates, there shouldn’t be any unmapped files.

To change the symbol for all POI pushpins (location) in a set (I like all the campgrounds to have the same symbol unless it’s a Passport America campground – I can also change an individual pin’s symbol as well)

Change the symbol for all pushpins in a set

On the map legend, click the name of the pushpin set that you want to change.

On the DATA menu, click DATA SET PROPERTIES.

On the GENERAL tab, click the SYMBOL arrow.

Click the symbol you want. Use the scroll bar on the right side of the menu to view a complete list of symbols.

Click OK.

I can also change the Name there as well. Additional information can be added to the Information box (right click on a push pin to bring up menu, click on “Show Information”). It’s easier for me to type up what I want the box to say in Notepad and then copy/paste into the information box. I can also include a website there too. I always do these additional information changes in my master map so I’m not having to copy/paste the same information over and over.

I also delete the categories that have been updated from POI-Factory (like the Passport America, Cracker Barrels and Wal-Marts).

That’s how I set up Streets & Trips 2013.

I though I might let others know how I map out a route so they might get an idea or two to use.

I use Streets&Trips to map out my basic route on the computer. I tend to hang to the US highways rather than the interstates. The POIs on Streets&Trips come in very handy for working out potential stops along the way. I like to keep the daily run to about 150 – 250 miles a day. It’s kinda flexible. I try to have three stops per day set up. Early stop for when making bad time for whatever reason, Planned stop which can be in a campground or in a parking lot and then there is my Last or Backup stop for making very good time and it’s too early to stop at the Planned stop OR if we can’t stay at the Planned for various reason. If I get a bad feeling about a place, I do not stay. Also if I drive a long distance one day, I tend to not want to drive a long distance the following day. I can schedule how long I will be at a stop in either hours & minutes or in nights. That helps me to know where I will be in how many days.

I use it to do a preliminary trip mapping and then I fine tune my route using the internet (check on campground prices and other information) and a fairly current issue of “The Next Exit”. I tend to buy the Next Exit book every two or three years so I know roughly what is at the exits. I do this because even if I’m not driving ON the interstate, I’m usually crossing over an interstate or two (at least in the eastern US – not so much in the west) and my completed route goes into a paper atlas. When I buy a new atlas, I get a specific size (I need to have the map pages 8X11), I rip it apart (neatly) and slip the pages into sheet protectors that goes into a large loose leaf notebook. I use wet erase overhead projector markers to trace my route out with on the plastic sheet protectors. Later I can use a damp paper towel to wipe off the marker and it’s ready for a new trip.

Back to S&T – I first open up my map (the one I saved under my name). Then I “hide” most of the POI categories. I keep open the Passport America campground POIs (because I use them), the Cracker Barrel POIs (we eat breakfast and supper there) and the Wal-Mart/Sam’s Clubs (because I prefer to stay in a Sam’s Club parking lot when traveling over other parking lots).

Then I do an automatic route by typing in my starting point and my destination (ROUTEROUTEADD AS START and ADD AS END or type the address into the search bar and right click on the resulting pushpin to pull up a little menu). Then I go online and look up the campgrounds along the way. I shift and adjust the route using way points. What I really like about the computer is that it shows the mileage. So while I shift my route around, it continuously updates the mileage and I can easily determine where I want to stop at.

Once I get my route and stops all locked down, I save it for the last time. Then I copy the route and stops into the Atlas. When I stop each night, I check to see what needs to be adjusted on the route thru Streets&Trips, then I make the changes in the Atlas. This is what has been working for me.

Bathroom Faucet Upgrade

Finally got tired of the bathroom sink faucet’s drooling. No other way to describe it. When the faucet was turned on, it would slightly drool, not leak, along the backside of the faucet head and onto the countertop making a puddle behind the faucet. Not matter how well I cleaned and tightened the threads in the faucet screen, it would still drool. Even when I used Teflon tape on the threads, it still drooled. Add the hard water that we endure in NM and it meant a real mess.Plus I could never get into the tiny space between the sink bowl and the faucet base to clean it out.

While I was at Home Depot this morning buying stuff for another project, I wandered down the faucet aisle and decided to pick up a new faucet. Now was as good a time as any.  I had today off. So after I had lunch, I turned off the water pump and took the old faucet out and replaced it with the new faucet. It’s an easy job and it looks so much better.

PIC_6302

I really like that the faucet arm swings. This will make it easier to rinse the sink out. Also, the faucet arm can be pushed out of the way as needed.

The faucet I bought was a Glacier Bay Laundry Faucet “Aragon” (Home Depot SKU 780-445 $19.98). It has the same spread as a standard vanity sink faucet and bar sink faucet.

On to my next project….

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‘Tis The Season…

We recently had our first real extended below freezing cold spell of the season. It lasted about 3-4 days. The bus stayed toasty warm which was great considering both my daughter & I had colds at the time.

The interior storm windows worked as hoped for. I still need to build 3 or 4 more for the salon. Maybe the cold weather will get me motivated to do so. The heat tape kept the water flowing. I was extra careful to make sure all the metal elbows and connections in the PEX lines were touched by the heat tape. Also we have added a couple of long wire shelves in the bus in an effort to find better places to put things. We put one up in the salon over the daybed. I think I need to add one above the front windshield. One wire shelf is above the windows in the bedroom. That one meant that we had to relocate the TV. Still need to buy one more shelf for above the headboard. We also bought a tall tool chest with locking drawers (the kind to stack another tool chest on top of). I’ve got my beads, clay and paper for the printer in it. The printer is sitting on top of it. We need to get one for Tace’s art supplies (maybe two). I think we are finally getting a handle on our storage problem. Lifting the bed up high enough to slide 5 gallon buckets under it has really helped.

pic_6241

Ruby Lee spends most of her time in the heated bed. She seems to prefer to sleep under the covers. Like last year, she seems to feel the cold a lot. Pretty much what I expected from a skinny greyhound. So we are keeping the bus pretty warm. We have an electric heater in the bedroom (Tace’s parabolic heater) and I moved the electric heater in the salon to the entry. On my bus, I have a stock heater that is literally in the entry stairwell. It’s not used (and I don’t know if it even works). It runs off of the engine coolant. I used some of the skinny little bungee cords and strapped the little electric Patton Milkhouse heater to the grates of the bus heater. It seems to be heating the salon more evenly and not as much cold air seems to be coming off the entry door. I need to get that thing skinned over with PVC “wood” and add a layer of plexi over the glass. For now it’s covered with Reflectix. Once the outside temps drop below 45F, the fireplace is turned on. I’m so very glad I added the blower to the fireplace. It really makes a big difference.

We decided that this winter was going to have a lot of cold spells which was going to require us to run the fireplace. So we had the local LP distributor drop off a big tank and fill it. Cost us $50 to have it set (they had a special going on) and they let us fill it 50% (60 gallons) which is their minimum fill. The big tank is hooked into one of the unused shut off valves on the regulated LP manifold. We had gotten three of the 20lb LP tanks filled the same day we went in to the rent the big tank. We didn’t know when they would be out to set the tank since a bad freeze was expected and we had no intention of being without LP. But they were out the next day to set the tank and fill it. So I have the three 20lb tanks full to use on the bathroom heater as well as a back up to the big tank. If the big tank empties, they will charge a lot of money to “pressure test” the lines before they will fill the tank again. We’ll just make sure we call them before it runs out (10%) and, if need be, run the smaller tanks. I’ve had the bigger tanks before and I know to keep an eye on them. We just have to set aside enough money to fill the tank.

Tace estimated that the 60 gallons will last about 10 weeks. I figure it will depend on how cold it gets and how much we run the fireplace. The fireplace uses the most LP of all the LP appliances. Tace really likes having the fireplace on because it makes it so cozy and homey. She has yet to toast a marshmallow in the fireplace. Yes, you can once you remove the grill cover, and no, it does not “taste” like propane. How do I know this? Because I HAD to toast a marshmallow when the fireplace was first installed.

Thanksgiving was nice. We both had to work different shifts on Thanksgiving Day. But we had the middle part of the day off. I had bought a box of frozen stuffed chicken breasts a few weeks back. We had those for our dinner. I also made a batch of my homemade cranberry relish. It was nice and tart. It’s just fresh cranberries, unflavoured gelatin, water and a little (very little) sugar. I have enough cranberries to do it again for Yule.

pic_6264

Homemade Low Sugar Whole Berry Cranberry Sauce

Tace and I splurged for Yule and decorated the mantle for the holidays. Spent a whopping $30. The stockings we hung are really socks (and on sale). We saw them in K-Mart and thought they looked more like Christmas stockings than actual socks. I added a beaded loop (not shown in the pics) so they would hang off the stocking hangers (50% at Hobby Lobby). We picked up a short cheapie greenery garland and a short string of lights for cheaper than buying a pre-lit greenery garland. I just doubled the greenery garland which made it much fuller looking and wound the lights into the garland. I had some seashells, both gathered and bought, that I stuck into the garland. We also bought a 6 pack of battery operated LED tea lights. I stuck a scallop shell on each of those to hide the tea light “flame”. I will probably make beaded tea light covers for next year.  We decided to not put the tree up this year. The wire shelf we put up over the daybed extends from the wall I hung the tree on last year to the back of the driver’s seat. So that did away with the place I had to hang the tree. I need to figure out another spot for the tree. I just have to do a few other things before I find a place for the tree. Next year I’ll probably put the tree up.

 

First Freeze Of The Fall

The overnight low was 26F. It dropped below freezing around 8PM and didn’t get above 32F until around 2AM. I’m guessing this was when the cold front rolled in. It was 34F this morning when the dog decided she needed to go out to pee & poo. Bus was fairly warm. I don’t typically keep it warm overnight but I forgot to turn the space heater in the front off last night. I typically keep the bus between 50F & 65F overnight. Tace likes to leave the space heater in the bedroom on fairly high plus crank her side of the bed up. The dog gets cold (not much fur to keep her warm) so keeping the bedroom warm overnight will be a given. Nothing froze overnight. So I’m guessing I’m good until I can get the rigid insulation bought to make the boxes. I’ve decided to rethink using the waterbed heating pad on the holding tanks. Tace & I did our grocery shopping yesterday and had to stop in Wal-Mart to buy canned diced potatoes (for Stoup). While there Tace saw some little tiny (250 watt) space heaters and mentioned that she had used them in the past as they heated very well for places like under the sink and such. They were only $10. I think I will get two to place inside each of the tank boxes, once I get them built, to keep that area warmed up. I can put them on a couple of those Easy Heat thermostat plugs so no power goes to them until temps drop to 38F (I have one and it turns off the power at 50F so I kept the thermostat inside the box with the heater). It would be a lot cheaper than a waterbed heater pad. And I am cheap. I have used space heaters and incandescent light bulbs to keep RV plumbing warm before. A small space heater works well and tends to have a fan to move the air around so there are no cold spots to worry about. Been trying to decide if I should leave the pipe cable in place or remove it. I don’t have to remove it. I will probably leave it in place and just not use it unless temps are going to be really cold. It can get really cold here in NM. I think this is going to be a colder winter than what I have experienced out here (longer freezes). I don’t really want to unhook all the stuff anyway. My insulated boxes will have to be built in stages. First the insulation, then the road cover, then the access doors. Plus I still need to add another fresh tank because the washing machine empties the 30 gallon fresh tank faster it than takes to refill. So before I add the road cover, I need to buy the Super Struts to rehang the existing fresh tank (I want to relocate it by a couple of feet) plus add the second tank. The way I have the tanks hung, I can slide bins with the hoses and connections in with the tanks once it is covered (and why I need the access doors).
 
Unless I come up with something different before I get started on this idea. You know, when it comes to conversions, I see a lot of the interior/exterior “eye candy” pics online but what I don’t see a whole lot of is things like the underside storage. I’m beginning to think folks don’t mess with that part much. Only thing I have seen for storage of “stuff” is someone who hung 2-expensive-2-me under mount tool boxes on the bottom of their bus. The tool boxes hang down too much for my tastes and are far too shallow (I have about 30″ from sidewall to the frame beam and most of these under mount tool boxes are only 18″ deep). It’s like when I was trying to figure out how to do the LP tanks. Other than a welded setup (I can’t weld), there was pretty much nothing that I could look at and adjust to make a storage space to hold all my tanks (all 8 of them… currently). Lots of pics of the interior, the part I didn’t need help with. But the Super Strut setup I finally came up with seems to be working well and I have adapted it to use with the waste tanks. I know that there are folks out there who think I am stupid for going that route (I know this because they called me stupid online… and that was one of the nicer names) but I can’t weld and once all the parts are threaded together they seem pretty strong and sturdy. Will it hold up to a slung tire? Probably not but then a lot of things won’t. I see enough RVs roll into the parks with damage to the bays from a slung tire to think otherwise. But my LP tanks and generator held up just fine to driving off road thru the brush, rocks and cacti when I had to turn the bus around on a dirt road. The generator (hangs off the Super Struts) has gone off road twice… so far. I do know that when we slung a tire on the Class C, it tore the wheel well all up. But the wheel well was simply a plywood box screwed and caulked to the plywood floor deck. While I would have preferred that the LP tanks hang in the middle of the bus, it just wasn’t gonna work out. So they are behind the rear wheels, along with the generator. And they all hang and inch or so below the side skirting. Luckily a school bus has a high road clearance. Once I got everything all tightened up (with a bit of EU6000 on the nuts to prevent them from loosening up on their own) it was all surprisingly rigid.

At any rate, I am happy with my Super Strut setups. They are easily attached to the underside of the floor (I have “L” brackets that run full width side-2-side that already have a hole to put a bolt thru on the far ends) with minimal drilling. The various holes that the 1/2″ threaded rods go thru allow the struts to be adjusted fairly easily. The struts will hold a lot of weight. And they are easily cut with a hack saw and a sharp blade. They do dull the blades pretty quickly. The “weak” part of the deal seems to be the threaded rod. Although the 1/2″ rod doesn’t seem to want to bend much, particularly with them only being 18″ and 24″ long (they are screwed in to where they touch the bottom side of the bus floor on the LP lockers).

I have found that since I collected all my plumbing lines to where they run crosswise on the bus in only a couple of places, I cannot put a single pipe insulation tube on the section. I think that using a section of PVC pipe gutter will be what I end up using. They are “U” shaped so I can line them with insulation scraps and pop them into place and secure with a zip tie or really short screw. I will have to do a little measuring to see how it will work out. I really did not think I would be going thru another NM winter. Oh well. Just need to get prepared for it.

 

I am an RVDer!

There seems to be an ongoing trend amongst the RV groups. Words that I used to use have come to mean other things. Most of the these words were used mostly within the RVing community or had a different meaning within the RVing community than in the general population.

Camping was done in a tent, a travel trailer or motorhome. Now you can only camp while in a tent. You are not allowed to call it “camping” if you are in a trailer (they are no longer called “campers”) or motorhome. I’m surprised that campgrounds are still called campgrounds. Give them time and they will come up with another name for them.

Boondocking is one that the meaning has changed greatly. Way back in the early 1980’s the word meant any time a self-contained trailer or motorhome (recreational vehicle) stayed any where, for any length of time, without using any hookups (no water, no sewer and no electrical). This term applied in campgrounds, in parking lots, paved or unpaved, in someone’s back yard, any where.

Now the word means something different. You have to not only be self-contained, but you must also be XX number of miles from any other living (or possibly dead) person. You cannot be on pavement. I’m not sure about gravel. There’s a whole convoluted definition that applies now. I was informed that because the “newer definition” is on the internet, it’s the correct one. So I came up with my own word for the type of practice that I used to call boondocking. I call it “freedom parking” and put my definition on the internet.

My Official Definition of Freedom Parking as of 05/18/2013 4:24PM MST: “Freedom Parking” is any time that one parks their Residential Vehicle in a place and they remain self contained and do not hook up to any utilities and/or do not use any facilities. This can be in any no facility campground, the side of any road, any paved parking lot, any store parking lot, any rest area, shoreline of any water (lake, creek, river, ocean, bay, reservoir), any vacant land either public or private. (http://freedomparking.webs.com/)

I’ve noticed that the term “RVer” have been redefined to mean something other than “a person who is in a Recreational Vehicle” (long or short term). Now you have to “RV” in certain kinds of “RV”s. Some folks don’t think any kind of home built or converted recreational vehicle can be called an “RV”. I always thought that “RVing” was more a frame of mind rather than actually being in a travel trailer or motorhome. I am in an RV park where there are a lot of people who are living in travel trailers and motorhomes because their jobs demand that they work far from home. Although some really have no home any more. I really don’t consider them to be RVers and I don’t think they think of themselves as RVers. For them, the RV is simply a better choice than staying in motels and hotels.

And then there is the time frame. For some you can’t “RV” (be in your RV) for more than XX number of days. Not continuously but scattered out over the course of a year. Others think, for “fulltiming”, that you simply have to be on the move all the time and never stop for more than a week at a time. That is a very expensive way to stay in a park. Private parks offer a much cheaper monthly rate as opposed to the more expensive nightly or weekly rates. But when you stay for the “long term” (6 months or more) you become the dreaded “semi-permanent” or “permanent” RVer who the park reviewers think should not be allowed in the parks. But isn’t a “snowbird” considered a “semi-permanent RVer” when they stay for 6 months or longer in a park waiting out the winter?

I also find it interesting that the RVers of today seem to have never had to work. They seem to have a deep seated dislike to those in the RV parks that do still have a job and live in their trailers and motorhomes while they work at jobs that are outside the parks. I remember when “camping or “RVing” was a cheap way of vacationing. Now only the well-to-do are allowed to “RV”. I read the park reviews and am just amazed at the derision heaped on those of us who live in RV parks for months or years at a time.

I no longer fit the new description of RVer as it has changed rather than me changing. I’m not too sure I want to be an “RVer” by today’s standards. I have stopped posting on RV forums because the rabid intolerance of the current RVers for those who are different from them is disturbing. Most of these “groups” are very intolerant of anyone who is different than they are. I have discovered that I am pretty much avoiding various “groups”.

So I live 24/7/365 (366 in a leap year) in a self-converted Residential (built from residential components for long term living) Vehicle. I have decided that I am an Residential Vehicle Dweller…. or an RVDer!

PS. A friend read this and commented that it got her to thinking about what to call herself since, like me, she feels that the description of RVer does not really apply to her. She came up with “Mobile Dweller” or “MD”! I like that one too!